The Court Jeweller

Sparkling Royal Jewels From Around the World

The Australian Opal Spray Brooch

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Heathcliff O’Malley – WPA Pool/Getty Images

A few weeks ago, I received a reader email inquiring about this brooch from the Queen’s collection. Because it’s set with October’s birthstone, I decided to wait until this week to feature it. Here’s some background information on the Australian Opal Spray Brooch.

Heathcliff O’Malley – WPA Pool/Getty Images

The brooch was one of the Queen’s wedding gifts. It was presented to her in 1947 by the Returned Sailors’, Soldiers’, and Airmen’s Imperial League of Australia, an organization devoted to supporting former service members after they have returned home. The brooch reflected Australia in both its design and materials: the golden setting represents a spray of flowering gum, and the piece is set with Australian black opals and diamonds.

Jonathan Brady – WPA Pool/Getty Images

The brooch isn’t one of the Queen’s most-worn pieces, but in recent years, it’s made a few prominent appearances. The Queen chose it for a parliamentary reception at Buckingham Palace in October 2013. On this occasion, she paired the brooch with a tweed jacket, and the gold setting was the most visible part of the piece in many images.

Heathcliff O’Malley – WPA Pool/Getty Images

In July 2015, however, the Queen pinned the brooch to a light blue jacket, letting the design and the opals really shine. On this occasion, she chose the brooch for a visit to the Chadwell Heath Community Centre.

Geoff Pugh – WPA Pool/Getty Images

She also wore the brooch with a blue ensemble for a very appropriate occasion in March 2016: the annual Commonwealth Day Service at Westminster Abbey.

Thanks to Jennifer for sending the email that inspired this post! Have a question about a piece of royal jewelry? Drop me a line at lauren@thecourtjeweller.com!

The Harewood Fringe Tiara

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Princess Mary wears her diamond fringe tiara, ca. 1922

With a recent appearance (as a replica) in the new Downton Abbey film, there’s been a lot of chatter about the diamond fringe tiara that belonged to Princess Mary, Princess Royal and Countess of Harewood. Today, we’ve got a look at this tiara’s history.

The fringe tiara is displayed alongside the rest of Mary’s wedding gifts, 1922 (Illustrated London News)

The classic diamond fringe tiara, an always-popular tiara design, was one of Mary’s wedding gifts, offered to her when she wed Viscount Lascelles in 1922. The tiara, which was made around 1890, was presented to her by Lord and Lady Inchcape. They could definitely afford to give a diadem to a princess: Lord Inchcape, who was born James Mackay, was a wealthy Scottish businessman who made a fortune in the shipping industry. He also served as a colonial diplomat and administrator, and he was ennobled as Baron Inchcape in 1911, Viscount Inchcape in 1924, and the 1st Earl of Inchcape in 1929.

Princess Mary wears the fringe tiara, ca. 1922

The new Viscountess Lascelles posed for portraits in her new fringe tiara shortly after her wedding. In the images, she wears the tiara low across her forehead, in 1920s fashion. The versatile tiara could also be taken off its frame and worn as a necklace.

Central Press/Hulton Archive/Getty Images

Mary kept and wore the fringe tiara throughout her left. More than four decades after she received it, she wore the fringe during the Greek state visit of 1963. She selected the tiara for a special performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream at the Aldwych Theatre in London. (In fact, you’ll note that she repeated almost all of her jewels from the 1922 portrait on this occasion.)

Princess Mary wears the fringe tiara, ca. 1922

Mary passed away in March 1965, and the tiara was sold at Christie’s by her sons in 1966. At some point, the tiara found new aristocratic owners: the Grosvenors. The late 6th Duke of Westminster acquired the tiara at some point, and it seems that it remains a part of the family collection today.