The Kochert Amethyst and Gold Parure

Okay—we’ve got just enough time to squeeze a few more amethysts into February! Today, we’ve got a closer look at a unique gold and amethyst parure that was sold at Sotheby’s in 2019.

The set, which was made around 1835, was offered for sale at Sotheby’s in Geneva by an unnamed German noble family. The parure was presented in its original fitted case, which is stamped with the mark “Pioté & H. Köchert.” Emanuel Pioté and Jacob Heinrich Köchert were brothers-in-law who founded a jewelry firm in Vienna in 1825. By 1832, they had been named court jewelers to the Austrian imperial family. The company, now known as A.E. Köchert, still exists today.

The centerpiece of this impressive parure is an intricate golden tiara studded with pale violet amethysts. The diadem is designed as a wreath with delicate gold leaves. Amethysts are included as “berries” on the branches; they are also set in the center of three large floral ornaments on the piece. The auction notes for the parure indicate that the tiara features “detachable comb fittings.”

Next is a large gold and amethyst necklace, which features oval-shaped amethysts set in golden floral elements that match the trio affixed to the tiara. Smaller golden flowers are placed between the gem-set flowers.

Here’s a closer look at the center element of the necklace. If you look closely, you’ll be able to spot a small golden bale at the base of the amethyst’s golden floral surround.

That bale allows the necklace to be worn with this detachable amethyst and gold pendant, which matches the rest of the necklace design. The pendant was also offered as part of the sale.

The golden floral design elements continue in the suite’s large earrings, which features amethysts set in the golden floral studs and golden floral pendants, as well as in an additional pendant at the bottom of the earrings. The auction notes clarify that the earrings have “hook fittings.”

The final piece looks like an intricate rectangular brooch—but surprise! It’s actually a gold and amethyst belt buckle that coordinates perfectly with the rest of the set.

The parure was estimated to bring around $15,000-$25,000 USD at auction. Instead, it significantly exceeded that window. When the hammer fell in Geneva on November 13, 2019, the parure sold for almost $48,000 USD.